Tumbet

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A few evenings ago, I shut myself in the kitchen with a sack full of late harvest vegetables and my iPod playing a podcast of The Splendid Table—perfect to cook to. I had decided to capitalize on the last of summer’s bounty by making a tumbet, a Mallorcan dish of layered summer vegetables—eggplant, zucchini, potatoes—alternated with a thick tomato sauce into which diced, sauteed red and yellow peppers are stirred (Rafa Nadal is from Mallorca, so we know good things come from this Spanish island).  A tumbet is a lot like a ratatouille, at least in terms of its ingredients.  The tumbet is more labor intensive, so I was curious to try it and find out if it´s worth the extra effort.  We ate it the next night, alongside grilled pork chops, and I am here to tell you that it is worth the trouble.  The vegetables are sliced and either roasted or fried.  The tomato sauce is rich and concentrated.  The end result has more vegetable-y flavor than does ratatouille, which is more of a stew.  So if you are short on time, by all means go with the ratatouille.  But if you have the patience, try the tumbet.

Mallorcan Eggplant and Potato Casserole (Tumbet)

(From The New Spanish Table)

2 medium eggplants (about 2 ½ pounds total) trimmed and cut lengthwise into 1/3      inch thick slices

Coarse salt

½ cup fragrant, extra virgin olive oil, or more if needed

2 medium yellow bell peppers, peeled, cored, seeded and diced.

2 medium red bell peppers, peeled, cored, seeded and diced

1 pinch sugar

1 splash vinegar

3 medium Yukon gold potatoes (about 1 ½ pounds), peeled and cut into 1/8 inch thick slices

2 thick, medium zucchini, cut in half crosswise, then cut lengthwise into ¼ inch thick slices

Joan’s Tomato Compote (recipe follows)

1.     Rub the eggplant slices with salt and place in a colander.  Let stand for 30 minutes.  Rinse well and pat dry with paper towels.

2.     Heat 2 Tbsp of the olive oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat.  Add the yellow and red peppers and cook, stirring, until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes.Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet, and cook the peppers until they are very tender, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Taste the peppers; if the flavor is not vibrant enough, add the sugar and vinegar, then season with salt to taste.  Increase the heat to high and cook until the liquid is reduced a little bit, 1 – 2 minutes.  Set aside.

3.     Heat the remaining 6 Tbsp olive oil in another large skillet over medium heat.  Working in two batches, cook the potato slices until light golden and almost soft, about 4 minutes per side.  Don’t overcrowd the skillet.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fried potatoes to paper towels to drain.  Then, using the same skillet and working in batches, cook the eggplant until golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the fried eggplant to paper towels to drain.   Cook the zucchini slices in the same fashion until light golden, 2 – 3 minutes per side, adding more olive oil if necessary.

4.     When you are ready to assemble the tumbet, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

5.     Place the cooked peppers and the tomato compote in a large bowl and stir to mix. Arrange the potatoes in a layer on the bottom of a 12 x 9 x 2 inch baking dish.  Sprinkle lightly with salt and dab a little of the tomato compote on top.  Arrange the zucchini in a layer over the potatoes, sprinkle it with salt, and dab some sauce on top. Arrange the eggplant in a layer over the zucchini and sprinkle it with salt.  Spread the remaining compote on top and bake until the flavors meld, 15 – 20 minutes.  Serve warm, cold, or at room temp, cut into squares.

NOTE:  I did not peel my peppers—too much work—and it was just fine.  I parboiled my potatoes instead of frying them and that was fine, too.  You can also broil the zucchini and eggplant (brushed w/olive oil) if you want to skip all that frying.

Joan’s Tomato Compote

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2/3 cup finely chopped white onion

1 clove garlic, minced

2 pounds very ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

¼ cup dry white wine

1 pinch sugar

1 splash vinegar

coarse salt

Heat the olive oil in a deep, medium sized skillet over low heat.  Add the onion and cook until soft but not brown, about 5  minutes.  Add the garlic and stir for 30 seconds.  Add the tomatoes, increase the heat to medium high, and cook, stirring, until they release their liquid, 3 – 4 minutes.  Add the wine, sugar, and vinegar and season with salt to taste.  Cook the compote until the tomatoes are soft but still hold their shape, about 5 minutes longer.  If the compote is too liquid, increase the heat to high and cook until reduced, 1 – 2 minutes.  Let the compote cool to warm before using.