Dubrovnik to Bari to Brindisi to Patras

On Friday morning we packed up and drove to the port for our next ferry—this one to Bari, Italy.  We found a cozy upholstered booth in which we set up shop for the 7 hour ride, and the time went quickly.

Bari is on the east coast of Italy, down near the heel of the boot.  It’s more a place that people come and go from rather than a destination in its own right.  We arrived at about 8 and had made a reservation at a restaurant in the center of town that sounded good in the guidebook.  It turned out to be not only phenomenal, but also by far the least expensive restaurant meal we had eaten since we left Barcelona.  Terramina is a simple trattoria with a menu that changes every two weeks to take advantage of seasonal ingredients.  Alec and I shared a plate of local cheeses garnished with perfectly ripe figs and melon.  Then a salad of chopped lettuce, apple, nectarine, and pomegranate with a bright, citrusy dressing.  Bari is in Puglia, a region of Italy that prefers short, stubby pastas.  Orecchiette is everywhere.  We each had delicious pastas, and then tiny freshly made pastries—flaky round disks sandwiched with warm pastry cream.  I was SO happy to be in Italy, if only for 18 hours.

We took our time getting out in the morning—it was another day and we’ve learned that it’s best to take it slow.  Eventually we went for a wander in the old part of the city, which was purposely designed like a maze to keep outsiders on their toes.  The church houses a portrait of the Virgin Mary from the 8^th century, and it’s said that it was created from a sketch done by the apostle Luke, and is therefore supposed to be a true likeness.  It’s a beautiful work.

Having had some experience with ferry food, we also stopped into a salumeria for bread, cheese, and meat to bring with us on the boat.  We had some lunch and stopped for gelato on our way out of town. 

The drive from Bari to Brindisi—the departure point of our next ferry—took just over an hour.  This is by far the biggest ship, and the longest ride, we have taken so far.  We have a little cabin—which is actually much bigger than I expected, with room enough for me to throw down my yoga mat and stretch—with two sets of bunk beds, a bathroom and a little window.  The ship has a disco, and even a pool on one of the decks.  We took the kids for a swim after it had been filled with sea water, just as the sun set.  They thought it was super cool to be swimming in a pool on a ship, with water all around. 

And now we are all tucked in, ready to sleep as we head south to Greece.  We arrive at 11 in the morning and, after a 5 hour drive, we’ll be set for the next week.